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Oily Skin: Causes & Treatment

- Tuesday, August 15, 2017

What can I do about my oily skin and breakouts?

 
Acne and oily skin are some of the most alienating skin conditions.
 

They can cause frustration, irritation, physical and even emotional scars. Don’t think these issues are just for teens:
                 
This makes it one of the most common skin disorders in the United States.
Before diving into treatments for oily skin and acne, it’s critical to understand their root causes so proper treatment can be delivered for targeted results.
 
 What causes oily skin?
Sebum (oil) production is controlled by androgen hormones. Oils help lubricate skin, protecting it from environmental assaults (such as extreme weather conditions). Excess androgen hormones (due to puberty, monthly cycles or menopause) trigger an overproduction of oil, creating a shiny appearance.
 
How does oily skin contribute to acne?
The skin should have a perfectly balanced acid mantle layer (the skins natural protective layer against infection), which consists of 50/50 sweat to sebum (oil) make up. This keeps the skins natural acidity level of 4.5 -5.5ph. When you have an over production of one of these natural substances produced by the skin, the acid mantle layer becomes unbalanced, causing the acidity level in the skin to drop to a more alkeline environment. This then leaves the skin open to infection and becomes a breeding ground for bacteria. 
 
When sebaceous (oil) glands produce too much oil, it spills onto the skin’s surface, creating a slick, greasy appearance. This excess oil acts as a binder, holding on to dead skin cells that were meant to be shed, helping the bacteria to breed further as it is being help on to the skin's surface. 
 
Proper Treatment for Results
 
A professional skin treatment can help jump start skin clearing and recover skin health.
 
Ultrasonic: This professional device delivers advanced deep cleaning to prep skin for exfoliation and extraction.
 
Exfoliation: Acne skins produces five times more dead skin cells than a healthy skin, meaning the sloughing of cells through exfoliation can greatly benefit this condition. Hydroxy acids, in general, will be effective, as they chemically detach the dead skin cells that contribute to clogged follicles. Physical exfoliants may not be appropriate for acne skins, due to skin sensitivity, but may be recommended for oily skins.
 
Galvanic Facial: This treatment is able to de-clog the skin and help soften impacted debris for easy removal.
 
High Frequency: This works to dissolve facial oils, disinfect, purify and promote skin healing.

IPL & Laser: This works to reduce the bacteria and redness in the skin, improving the apperance of the skin. IPL and Laser treatment works very quickly and is extremely successful, as you are able to have treatment every 3 days to clear the active breakouts. The downside to IPL and laser treatments is we are only able to treat fair to medium skin tones. 
 
Chemical Skin Peels: This treatment uses Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) to highly exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin. With the peels being acidic they help to balance the skins acid mantle layer and stop bacteria from breeding on the skins surface keeping the acne at bay. We say around 6 treatments are needed, with maintainance treatments every 3-6 months thereafter. 
 
As we can not always determine the causes of problematic skin, we recommend all clients follow a consistent home care routine, as this will dramatically impact the health of your skin and success of professional treatments. 

Tags: skincare, facials, facial treatments, skin, beauty, beauty treatments

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The secret to radiant and glowing skin.

- Tuesday, August 08, 2017
How can I improve my dull skin?
 
One thing therapists always recommend to their clients is to regularly exfoliate their skin, but maybe not explain why it is so important.
 
Skin exfoliation assists in the removal of dead skin cells to:
·         Improve skins smoothness and tone
·         Speed up cellular renewal
·         Allow for increased penetration of active ingredients in products.
 
As our skin cells renew, old surface cells harden and lose of moisture, creating a dull, lacklustre appearance that can cause clogging and congestion. And as we age, damaged, contaminated cells don’t always fall from the skin.
Through professional and home exfoliation dulling cells are effectively removed, and newer cells are revealed for a fresher, healthier appearance.
So… what is an exfoliant?
An exfoliant is any agent the removes dead skin cells and triggers new cells to push towards the skin’s surface. Exfoliants can be physical, chemical or both, and usage is dependent upon individual skin care needs.
 
Physical Exfoliants
Physical exfoliants use friction to remove dead skin cells, either through the use of a tool (such as a brush or sponge) or a gentle abrasive (such as Corn Cob Meal, Rice Bran or Oatmeal)
 
Chemical Exfoliants
Chemical exfoliants dissolve the intercellular “glue” that attaches cells to the surface. Hydroxy acids, Salicylic Acid, Retinol and enzymes (proteins that break the chemical bonds of older cells and “digest” them) are a few examples of chemical exfoliants. Hydroxy acids are the most common form of home chemical exfoliation because they are extremely effective and, when used properly, very safe. Glycolic acid was the first hydroxy acid to be used in a cosmetic application and is still widely-used despite a high occurrence of skin irritation. Lactic and Salicylic acids, which are as effective as Glycolic Acid, are now the choice of leading skin care professionals because they deliver the same level of results with considerably less irritation and have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties.
 
What about over-exfoliation?
Aggressive exfoliation treatments such as dermabrasion and deep chemical peels have led to over-exfoliation of skin. Research at The International Dermal Institute indicates a series of exfoliation treatments can be much more effective that one very aggressive treatment. In fact, any skin treatment – including exfoliation - that causes skin to become red and irritated is triggering the inflammatory response, which in turn can cause premature aging.
The Dermalogica BioActivity Score system takes the guesswork out of selecting the best exfoliant for your skin. Determined by a professional calculation of active agents and formulation parameters, the higher the BioActivity Score, the stronger the exfoliation.

 
 
Skin Prep Scrub
1
Daily Microfoliant
5
Daily Resurfacer
9
Multivitamin Thermafoliant
10 (when used on wet skin)
Skin Renewal Booster
10
Gentle Cream Exfoliant
12
Powerfoliant
16

Exfoliation & SPF
When professional exfoliation is performed, it is important to apply sun protection to protect the skin, as the sensitivity of the skin has been increased by the exfoliation. Continuing to wear SPF daily will shield skin from UV light damage.
 
 

Tags: exfoliation, skincare, facials, dull skin, skin, facial treatments, healthy skin

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Top 10 Face & Body Exfoliators

- Monday, July 31, 2017

Top 10 Face & Body Exfoliants

       1.            Dermalogica – Daily Microfoliant®
Benefits: Brightens and smooths skin
This is a rice-based exfoliating powder that activates upon contact with water, releasing Papain, Salicylic acid and rice enzymes that micro-exfoliate dead skin cells.
 
       2.            Environ – Youth EssentiA Vita-peptide toner
Benefits: Anti-aging, Brightening and balances oil.
This toner helps to increase hydration and improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, whilst peptides help to increase collagen and elastin production. It also contains powerful antioxidants to help purify the skin.  
 
       3.            Elemis – Frangipani Monoi Salt Body Scrub
Benefits: Exfoliates, Smooths and Softens
Mineral rich salts and hibiscus cleanse and exfoliate, whilst an infusion of exotic Tahitian Monoi Oil and Frangipani Flower seal in moisture.
 
       4.            Environ – AVST moisturising Toner
Benefits: Mild exfoliator, Evens skin tone, moisturising and hydrating.
This toner is a mild exfoliant containing lactic acid and anti-oxidants, which help to moisturise and hydrate the skin. The special ingredients work in synergy with other Environ products.
 
       5.            Decleor – Phytopeel
Benefits: Purifies and cleanses skin
A soft cream formula which exfoliates and smooths the epidermis. It gently absorbs and eliminates impurities, and does not contain exfoliating particles, the gentlest and most natural way to renew your skin
 
       6.            Dermalogica - Gentle Cream Exfoliatant
Benefits: Improves skin texture and smooths skin
Dramatically improves skin texture with two-in-one masque/exfoliation treatment. This non-abrasive formula contains Lactic acid and Hydroxy acid to help detach dead skin cells, increasing cell renewal while improving texture for dramatically smooth skin.
 
       7.            Elemis – Papaya Enzyme Peel
Benefits: Purifies, Revitalizes and Smooths.
This chemical exfoliator exfoliates and purifies tired, lacklustre skin. It is non-abrasive, leaving skin revitalized and radiant.
 
       8.            Decleor – 1000 grain body scrub
Benefits: Softer, Smoother and Refined Skin.
This indulgent body scrub helps provides velvety-smooth finish. Enriched with Grapefruit Essential Oil, which invigorates skin and a combination of Pearl Sugar, Argan Shell and Fruit Acids which help skin to feel softer, smoother and more refined.
 
       9.            Elemis – Gentle Rose Exfoliator
Benefits: Refines, Revitalises and brightens skin for a youthful, glowing completion.
 
   10.            Dermalogica – Exfoliating Face Brush
Benefits: Good for sensitive skin
This ultra-gentle brush works with your prescribed Dermalogica Cleanser or Clean Bar to gently exfoliate dulling surface debris and impurities for effective cleansing.

Tags: exfoliation, skincare, facials, dull skin, skin, facial treatments, healthy skin

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What can I do about my dry, dehydrated skin?

- Monday, July 31, 2017
What can I do about my dry, dehydrated skin?

Dry, dehydrated skin can be temporary, or a lifelong concern.
Dry skin can be genetically determined, or can be a product of an increasingly stressful lifestyle coupled with continual exposure to sun, wind and chemicals in the environment. It can also be caused by improper products being used on the skin.
Dry or Dehydrated?
Dry skin generally refers to skin that is lacking in oil. Whereas, dehydrated skin is characterized by lack of moisture in the Stratum Corneum.
Oily skin can experience dehydration and as mentioned, dehydration is a lack of water not oil. This means the sebaceous oil activity can be normal or even overactive in dehydrated skin.
 
Both dry and dehydrated skin can experience:
 
Irritation, inflammation and itchiness.
A feeling of tightness or tautness
A look or feel of roughness
Slight to severe flaking and scaling
Fine lines, cracks that can sometimes bleed and severe redness.
 

One of the biggest consequences is an increase in sensitivity, as dryness and dehydration are precursors to sensitive skin.

The top three causes of dry, dehydrated skin.
 
Intrinsic Aging
Intrinsic aging is the normal process of physical change over time that’s more about genetics than lifestyle. (Lifestyle-induced aging is known as premature aging). Activity of the sebaceous glands responsible for oil secretions tend to decrease with age, and the skin’s natural hydrators decline over the years. Aging also may cause blood flow to the skin to decrease, causing a drop in sebum production.
 
Weather/Environmental Elements
Prolonged exposure to the sun causes water to evaporate from the skin, which is why sunburnt skin requires more moisturization than unexposed areas. Likewise, cold winds, air conditioning units, forced air heating and low temperatures can also dry out skin, contributing to premature aging.
 
Lifestyle
The trend of fat-free diets can deprive our bodies of skin friendly Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs). This deficiency can result in chronic itching, dryness, scaling, thinning and can lead to an imbalance in prostaglandins (chemical messengers that do many things, such as control inflammation).
Excess intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medication (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin.
 
Proper Treatment for Results
Professional skin treatments can deliver immediate relief to dry or dehydrated skin, while improving texture and tone.
 

Overuse of moisturizers can contribute to dead skin cells build up, clogged pores and a lacklustre appearance. Professional exfoliation will remove dead skin cells and debris, helping to bring newer cells to the surface while prepping skin for subsequent production application.

Galvanic current is a professional device that helps drive nourishing, hydrating and replenishing ingredients deep into the layers of the epidermis, where dry, dehydrated skin starts.

 
At home, we recommend:

Do not use hot water when cleansing
Perform gentle, upwards circles with hands when cleansing, applying moisturizer or SPF etc.
Steer clear of products with artificial fragrances, colour and S.D alcohol.
Be aware of hormones, stress and alcohol and nicotine intake, as these will affect dryness of skin.

 

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How can I calm my sensitive skin?

- Friday, July 28, 2017

Sensitive, red, irritated skin is a frustrating disruption to everyday life. You’re not alone: up to 90% of the population perceive their own skin as sensitive. But, do you really have sensitive skin? Or is your skin sensitized, meaning the itching, redness and sensitivity is a result of environmental assault? Take a look at the differences between these two conditions that share similar results.

Sensitive skin...

Those who have very fair skin and are usually of Northern European ancestry have a genetic predisposition towards sensitive skin. This could be caused by the lower amount of pigment and thinner epidermal layer, allowing for easier access of potential irritating ingredients.

People with sensitive skin have more histamine readily produced in the body. The result is a more hypersensitive skin, waiting to react at any opportunity.

Versus sensitized skin.

Sensitized skin isn’t caused by a genetic predisposition. It can affect anyone, any age, of any race who is exposed to environmental assaults.

And what do they have in common.

Symptoms and triggers are the same for these condition, as both experience itching, burning, dryness, flushing and stinging.

Sensitive and sensitized skins suffer from weakened lipid barrier that’s unable to shield against assaults that increase moisture loss and skin dehydration. Dehydrated skin cells function poorly and skin’s immunity weakens creating a high risk for skin diseases (rosacea, eczema, psoriasis) and infection from irritants that contribute to skin sensitization.

What Causes Sensitized Skin?

Below are the most common factors relating to sensitized skin.

Environmental Assault
The fastest rising factor contributing to sensitized skin is environmental assault. This can be in the form of UV light, pollution, or even extreme weather. All these cause dryness, making skin more prone to sensitization.
Aging
A sharp decline in Stratum Corneum lipids as we age mean our skin will almost certainly be dry and/or dehydrated by the time we turn forty. This leaves skin defenceless against environmental assaults that damage our skin.
Lifestyle

Diet drinks and fat-free foods could leave you without the skin-friendly Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) that our skin needs. This can contribute to conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and dandruff.

Smoking drains the skin of vitamins A and C and constricts blood vessels – meaning smoking is somewhat like suffocating skin from inside.

Excessive intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medication can trigger dry, sensitive skin.

Over-Cleaning
The loss of existing sebum is commonly caused by excessive bathing, showering, scrubbing or use of harsh soaps. Shaving without a protective medium can also weaken skin’s barrier function.

What is the best treatment for sensitive skin?
A combined effort of the right products, the right treatments and awareness of inflammation and redness triggers will help manage your skin condition.

At home: when cleansing avoid very hot water as this may aggravate the skin further. Avoid the use of artificial fragrance or colours, artificial sweeteners, even spices can make skin flush. Avoid the use of products containing AHAs and BHAs as these can irritate sensitive skins further.

Take note of hormonal shifts, physical exertion, even alcohol and tobacco consumption as potential inflammatory triggers.

Products that we recommend for sensitive and sensitized skins:
Dermalogica UltraCalming Cleanser - Helps combat skin sensitivity caused by exposure to pollution, harsh climate, irritating cosmetic products and other environmental influences. Contains no artificial fragrance or colour.
Barrier Repair - Help fortify sensitized skin and a damaged barrier with this velvety, anhydrous (waterless) moisturizer. Use after toning to help shield against environmental and internal triggers that cause skin stress.
RAD SPF15 – Contains titanium dioxide to increase UV ray reflection, anti-oxidant to protect skin against free-radical damage, chemical free and water resistant.
Colostrum Gel – Contains colostrum to promote growth factors to thicken skin, supports the skins immunity, heals and soothes and is an anti-inflammatory. Good for skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and sensitive skin.

Treatment Recommended for sensitive skin:
HydraBoost Facial Treatment – The perfect antidote for dry and sensitive skin, this intensive treatment deeply hydrates whilst plumping and firming the skin. Based on Hyaluronic Acid, which hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water, it helps to reduce fine lines caused by dehydration and increase the plumpness of the dermis, resulting in moisturised, glowing skin.

 

 

 

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